在距北京市中心西南近300公里處，坐落于河北省石家莊市北部的滹沱河畔，有一座國家級歷史文化名城。那里的古建筑曾深深吸引梁思成。
1933年四月的一天，黃昏時分，梁思成教授和同伴從北平乘火車抵達正定火車站。由此拉開了他考察河北正定古城的序幕。
梁思成在隆興寺轉(zhuǎn)輪藏殿檐下（正定縣文旅局供圖）
“我因在進城后幾分鐘內(nèi)所得到的印象，才恍然大悟正定城之大出乎意料之外。但是當(dāng)時我卻不知在我眼前這一大片鱗次櫛比屋舍之中，還蘊藏著許多寶貝?！边@是梁思成后來回憶時所說的話。這段話在《品讀正定》中引述。該書作者為孫萬勇，曾任中共正定縣委書記。
"I was struck by the grandeur of Zhengding within minutes of arriving, which came as a surprise to me. However, at the time, I was unaware that amid the densely packed houses there were many treasures waiting to be discovered," Liang was quoted as saying in Pindu Zhengding ("savoring Zhengding"), a book by Sun Wanyong, a former Party secretary of the county.
正定歷史悠久，文化璀璨，有1600多年的建城史。與中國許多其他古城不同之處在于，正定的許多古建筑經(jīng)過戰(zhàn)火和自然災(zāi)害的侵蝕，仍然幸存了下來。如今，約10平方公里的古城內(nèi)，分布著10處國家級文保單位、5處省級文保單位。此外，還有7600余件館藏文物。
正定自古就有“九樓四塔八大寺，二十四座金牌坊”之說，形容名勝古跡之多。其中，四塔，是指坐落在四座寺廟中的古塔。而八大寺，則指正定城內(nèi)分布著的八座寺宇。如今，有五座依然保存完好。
Within the small historical county, which covers less than 10 square kilometers, there are dozens of ancient structures, including 10 national-level key cultural heritage protection units, five provincial-level cultural protection units, and more than 7,600 cultural artifacts in the local museum collection. Today, 38 ancient buildings still exist in the county seat.
Zhengding was mainly known for its "nine towers, four pagodas, and eight major temples, along with 24 ornamental archways", evidence of its abundance of famous historical sites dating back to as early as the Sui Dynasty (581-618).
其中，最著名的要屬規(guī)模宏大的隆興寺。梁思成稱其為“京外名剎之首”。隆興寺為國務(wù)院公布的首批全國重點文物保護單位，國家AAAA級旅游景區(qū)。始建于隋開皇六年（586年），是我國現(xiàn)存時代較早、規(guī)模較大而又保存較完整的一座著名的佛教寺院。據(jù)孫萬勇書中介紹，在梁思成日后的古建筑研究中，多次稱隆興寺是“精彩的、偉大的，是那樣的深邃”。
正定隆興寺 （攝影 趙尤）
正定隆興寺（攝影 張余）
Among them, Liang referred to Longxing Temple as one of the most well-known temples outside Beijing. Built in 586, it is one of the earliest and largest well-preserved Buddhist temples in China, and it left a deep impression on him.
In his later research on ancient architecture, he repeatedly referred to Longxing as "brilliant", "magnificent" and "profound", according to Sun.
看到隆興寺轉(zhuǎn)輪藏，他稱之為“是中國現(xiàn)存的唯一第十世紀(jì)的真正可以轉(zhuǎn)動的佛經(jīng)的書架。轉(zhuǎn)輪藏殿之結(jié)構(gòu)，尤為精巧，是木構(gòu)建筑之杰作……使我們高興到發(fā)狂?！?/p>
"It has the only surviving revolving Buddhist scripture bookcase from the 10th century in China. The structure of the bookcase pavilion is particularly exquisite, a masterpiece of wooden architecture.It made us ecstatic, and happily thrilled," Liang was quoted as saying, upon seeing the Zhuanlunzang Ge, or revolving bookcase pavilion, at Longxing Temple. The quote is recorded in Sun's book.
正定隆興寺轉(zhuǎn)輪藏 （攝影 張余）
此外，隆興寺內(nèi)的五彩懸塑倒坐觀音，為佛教美學(xué)藝術(shù)的上乘之作。這尊觀音像，頭戴寶冠，身披瓔珞，一足踏蓮，一足踞起，兩手自然撫膝，神態(tài)恬靜自若。
正定隆興寺五彩懸塑倒坐觀音（攝影 張余）
正定隆興寺千手觀音（正定縣文旅局供圖）
距離隆興寺不遠處，還有一座天寧寺。其中的凌霄塔，為一座磚木混合平面呈八角形的樓閣式塔，塔高40.98米。還有位于開元寺內(nèi)建于唐貞觀十年（636年）的須彌塔，高42.5米，是一座磚石結(jié)構(gòu)九級密檐式方塔。這些使經(jīng)歷了疲勞旅途的梁思成心情豁然開朗。
The statue, in a sitting posture, wears a crown, draped in ornaments. One foot rests on a lotus, while the other rests on the thigh. Both hands are placed naturally on the knee, exuding a sense of tranquillity. The statue breaks with the stiffness often associated with religious images, and embodies a more natural and graceful presence.
正定天寧寺凌霄塔（正定縣文旅局供圖）
正定開元寺須彌塔（攝影 張余）
第一次到訪后，梁思成又多次來到正定，發(fā)現(xiàn)、測量或拍攝的建筑物18處，詳細繪制摩尼殿、轉(zhuǎn)輪藏閣、陽和樓、縣文廟大成殿等八處圖紙，形成了考察總結(jié)，將正定古建筑列入中國建筑的典范和教材。
“如果說，這些都體現(xiàn)了梁思成的愛和暖，那么，對修繕保護好正定古建筑，則是殷切的希望和期待?！睂O萬勇在《品讀正定》中寫道。帶著梁思成的希望，20世紀(jì)80年代以來，正定一大批古建筑得到有效保護，隆興寺的摩尼殿、臨濟寺的澄靈塔、開元寺的須彌塔等陸續(xù)得到修繕。
正定廣惠寺華塔（正定縣文旅局供圖）
正定臨濟寺澄靈塔（正定縣文旅局供圖）
"If all of this reflects Liang's love for Zhengding's ancient buildings, then the meticulous restoration and protection of these ancient buildings embodies his earnest hopes and expectations," Sun says.
The county has not let Liang down. Since the 1980s, its ancient buildings have been protected, and buildings like the Moni Dian in Longxing Temple and the Xumi pagoda have been restored.
時光快進到當(dāng)下的2024年，正定縣已成為中國華北地區(qū)著名的旅游勝地之一，吸引著來自全國各地甚至海外的游客。
初到正定，游客可以沿著古城那條主要的歷史文化街道燕趙南大街漫步，你會看到身著漢服的年輕游客，或嬉戲玩笑，或以寺廟紅墻為背景打卡拍照，呈現(xiàn)出古今交融的美感。待華燈初上，南城門便成為正定最熱鬧的地點之一，它靠近這條古文化街的最南端。假期期間，人們涌上城門，欣賞正定古城美麗的夜景。站在南城門上，從南向北望去，整個縣城的景色盡收眼底，令人驚嘆。最引人注目的元素要屬那幾座被照亮的古塔。
正定南城門（攝影 武志偉）
Walk along Yanzhao South Street, a major historical and cultural street in Zhengding lined with temples on both sides, which leads to the Nanchengmen ("south gate") area, and you'll see tourists dressed in hanfu (traditional Chinese clothing), strolling along the street, joking, and posing for photos against the backdrop of red brick walls.
對于36歲的北京游客李楠來說，正定是她周末帶家人出行的最佳選擇之一。當(dāng)然，不像梁思成在20世紀(jì)30年代花了十個小時才到達正定，李楠一家四口乘坐的火車只用了一個多小時便到達目的地。
“第一天，我們乘高鐵到正定，然后參觀了幾個著名的景點，包括隆興寺和榮國府。”“我們還品嘗了許多當(dāng)?shù)氐拿朗?，比如八大碗。晚上看了看正定夜景，品嘗了最近火爆的夜市小吃?！?/p>
正定榮國府 （攝影 趙尤）
2024年國慶假期期間，在正定榮國府上演多場沉浸式演繹（正定縣委宣傳部供圖）
她的行程是經(jīng)典的正定一日游路線。說起正定之旅，李楠說她回去要向她的同事朋友們推薦這個寶藏地。確是周末好去處?！澳抢锸澄锖苊牢叮沤ê軌延^。如果有導(dǎo)游講解古建筑的細節(jié)和故事，你會更好地了解它們，”她說道。
Her itinerary is typical of a one-day tour of Zhengding. Rong Mansion, or Rongguo Fu is a group of buildings built in the 1980s in the style of the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368-1911), and is based on the classical novel Dream of the Red Chamber by Qingera writer Cao Xueqin.
"The food was delicious, while the ancient buildings were magnificent, but you can only get to know them better if you go with a guide, who can tell you details and stories about the old buildings," she says.
記者：張余
（文章內(nèi)容部分節(jié)選自孫萬勇著《品讀正定》）
